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How Low- And No-Proof Cocktails Are Stirring/Shaking A Drinking Revolution

Dave Greteman's drinks are delicious without the alcohol.
Emily Woodbury | St. Louis Public Radio
Dave Greteman's drinks are delicious without the alcohol.
Dave Greteman's drinks are delicious without the alcohol.
Credit Emily Woodbury | St. Louis Public Radio
Dave Greteman's drinks are delicious without the alcohol.

Getting drunk at dinner is sooo 2010. Some of the area’s most buzz-worthy bars are now focused on drinks that won’t get you buzzed. That includes Elmwood.

At this one-year-old Maplewood hotspot, the roster of booze-free cocktails (called “zero proof”) is just as interesting and complex as that of their liquor-fueled cousins. The restaurant is also serving drinks it calls “low proof,” offering a taste of spirits without condemning you to a raging headache the next morning.

On Friday’s St. Louis on the Air, Elmwood beverage director Dave Greteman explained that the restaurant very consciously eschews the term “mocktail.”

“I feel that there’s a sense of trepidation with going out and ordering something without alcohol,” he said. “There’s a worry you’re going to get something that’s just an afterthought. And then as a result, things like ‘mocktails’ become kind of a joke.”

In offering smart, interesting zero-proof compositions, he said, the restaurant wants diners to feel “that they are part of this cocktail culture.”

Greteman also explained how bartenders develop drinks that have the rich mouthfeel of a Manhattan without all the booze. And he discussed how the low- and no-proof options on Elmwood’s menu are changing the dynamic at its bar.

St. Louis on the Air” brings you the stories of St. Louis and the people who live, work and create in our region. The show is hosted by Sarah Fenske and produced by Alex Heuer, Emily Woodbury, Evie Hemphill and Lara Hamdan. The engineer is Aaron Doerr, and production assistance is provided by Charlie McDonald.

Send questions and comments about this story to feedback@stlpublicradio.org.

Copyright 2021 St. Louis Public Radio. To see more, visit St. Louis Public Radio.

Sarah Fenske joined St. Louis Public Radio as host of St. Louis on the Air in July 2019. Before that, she spent twenty years in newspapers, working as a reporter, columnist and editor in Cleveland, Houston, Phoenix, Los Angeles and St. Louis. She won the Livingston Award for Young Journalists for her work in Phoenix exposing corruption at the local housing authority. She also won numerous awards for column writing, including multiple first place wins from the Arizona Press Club, the Association of Women in Journalism (the Clarion Awards) and the National Society of Newspaper Columnists. From 2015 to July 2019, Sarah was editor in chief of St. Louis' alt-weekly, the Riverfront Times. She and her husband, John, are raising their two young daughters and ill-behaved border terrier in Lafayette Square.