This project is a collaboration between KBIA, The Columbia Missourian, The Mississippi Basin Ag and Water Desk, The New Territory Magazine, and PRX. Music for River Town comes from Gloria Attoun. And from the Album Audionautix: Acoustic by Jason Shaw, via the Free Music Archive. Creative Commons 3.0 United States License.
Transcription of the episode is as follows:
River Town Episode Two: Pedal, or Paddle?
[Trail sounds, bike noise, walking on gravel]
Tina Casagrand Foss: From KBIA and The New Territory with PRX: This is River Town. A celebration of the Missouri River and how it shapes the people and places it flows through. I’m Tina Casagrand Foss and this is episode two: Pedal or Paddle.
[music]
So far we’ve learned about how the Missouri River has inspired artists. In this episode, we’re having some fun. We’ll meet people who choose to spend their time sweating on the river. Our producers spent this past autumn meeting casual trail users, dry-land athletes and big river paddlers who enjoy actually getting their feet wet.
This is where I’ll admit that I don't like to sweat, and I don’t love getting my feet wet. I can’t even swim very well, like at all. But I have a 16-year-old stepdaughter who just took a kayak on the Missouri River by herself for the first time, a 14-mile trip. I admire the heck out of that. So Gertrude Echo, this episode is for you.
We’ll try to answer my simple question to her and all the cool athletes like her: Why? I mean, why exercise at all, but also why go through the extra trouble to get to the river to exercise?
[music]
[trail sounds, gravel crunching]
First, we’re heading to the Katy Trail.
[trail sounds, gravel crunching, bikes going by]
This iconic 240-mile trail follows roughly along the north bank of the Missouri River. It begins in St. Charles on the east end, crosses the river about halfway in Boonville, then heads toward Clinton to the west. You can thank the Missouri River for flattening the land around here, which is probably why the Missouri-Kansas-Texas Railroad (a.k.a. the M-K-T, a.k.a. “the Katy”) chose to lay rail lines right there. When the railroad ceased its operations in the 1980s, the state began converting the lines into a recreational trail that is now the longest continuous rail-trail in the United States.
Nowadays The Katy trail is paved with limestone gravel -- pieces of white chalky rock that’s local to almost all of Missouri.
Because of that, when I think about the Katy Trail, I think about dust. On a beautiful, dry day, you might be out admiring the river when a cyclist or horseback rider will pass and kick up a cloud of limestone dust all over you. You know you’ve been on the Katy when you get home and have to brush your ankles clean.
Let’s hear more from someone who knows the Katy Trail front, back and sideways…the author of the The Katy Trail guidebook.
Brett Dufur: So we are on the Katy Trail in Rocheport… it's a beautiful strip of green right next to the beautiful Missouri river. Right in the heart of Missouri.
Tina Casagrand Foss: Brett Dufur is a river guide and writer who lives in Rocheport. When he graduated from the Missouri School of Journalism in Columbia years ago, he wanted to find a job nearby.
Brett Dufur: All the locals were saying, ‘Oh, this Katy Trail is going to be such a big deal. We need a guidebook.’ And I thought, well, that’s crazy because the trail is flat and straight and it’s not like someone’s gonna wander off or something like that in the wrong direction.
Tina Casagrand Foss: Brett’s right -- the trail is notoriously flat. But it does pass near cool stuff. Giant trees, historic markers, and little towns with secret gems. Back in 1995 when Brett started writing, this stuff wasn’t very well known.
Brett Dufur: But really what I realized people were hungry for is an introduction to the history, the sense of place, all the stories that have come before. Whether it’s Lewis and Clark, or the railroad days or the steamboats, Daniel Boone, you know, Missouri wine country, the stories just go on and on and on.
And that’s what I love about writing guide books is I try to help open people’s eyes and inspire and encourage them to get off the highway so to speak to really check out these small authentic communities that still exist.
It’s a real labor of love. And, sometimes, it’s easy to drown yourself in the research and never resurface. But I’m really tickled that the Katy Trail guidebook in particular, I get to update it every year or two. That book is now in the 11th edition. And people just seem to love it. And so, I’m going to just keep updating as long as I can. It's a great story to tell.
[music]
Tina Casagrand Foss: The flatness of the Katy Trail means you are constantly pedaling at the same speed, mile after straight mile. There is no burn of climbing a steep hill and no thrill of coasting down one. But for folks looking for a steady pace, or those who love long bike journeys, the Katy Trail is the perfect destination.
Rivertown producer Olivia Mizelle [mye-ZELL] found two such cyclists on the trail outside of Boonville -- Jane Sappington and Linda McNadd.
[bicycles on trail, bicyclists chatting]
Olivia Mizelle: What brings you here today on this trail?
Jane Sappington: We’re the Big BAM ride. It’s a bike across Missouri, it's a sponsored ride. And there's over 100 riders from all over the United States. And we started in Clinton, Missouri, and we're riding all the way to St. Charles.
Olivia Mizelle: And how long does that take?
Ambiguous: Six days.
Olivia Mizelle: Six days? And what day are you on right now? Day two? How’s it going so far?
Linda McNadd: Beautiful weather. We’ve been camping though, so it’s cold at night.
Olivia Mizelle: Can you guys tell me a little bit about your experience on this bike ride and what made you want to do it?
Linda McNadd: I can tell you. It's the longest developed rail trail in the country. And it's in the Rails Trails Hall of Fame. And it's kind of right in our backyard since we live in St. Charles, because it goes and so we've ridden some of it just on our daily, you know, fun times. And so we decided we needed to do the whole thing.
Olivia Mizelle: Are you guys like big bikers? Do you do this a lot?
Jane Sappington: Not really. Hahaha. Not enough! I wasn’t nearly as well prepared as I should have been for this trip.
Linda McNadd: But she’s doing great. We’re proud of ourselves!
Jane Sappington: We are proud of ourselves.
Tina Casagrand Foss: I would be too! That sounds like an adventure I could do.
[bike interview fades]
Jane and Linda will wrap up their ride back home in St. Charles in four days. That’s four more days of scenic views on the Big Muddy.
[music]
Of course, the River’s recreational appeal isn’t just limited to the banks. Some folks like to float or fish, while others like to race. And the capital-R race, the largest nonstop river race in the world, takes place on the Missouri every July. It’s called the MR340: 340 miles, no stopping, no matter the conditions (unless it’s really storming; the 2023 race actually got canceled because of heavy rain, rising water and dangerous debris.).
[Sounds from Race to the Dome, river paddle race]
Athletes do have more relaxed paddling options. In October, the annual Race to the Dome takes place as a fundraiser for the nonprofit Missouri River Relief. It’s like a 5k benefit, but in boats.
Paddlers start in one of two access points upriver -- depending on if they want to paddle 16 miles or 28 miles. They end up across the river from Jefferson City, the state capitol. That's why it's named “Race to the Dome”… for our state capitol building which is in-view of the finish line.
Before the race, Christy Kurtz is hanging out with her kayak on the riverbank near Hartsburg. She’s the founder of a paddling club called Paddle K-C. She and about 14 other members of the group are participating in the race this year.
Christy Kurtz: Some of us are doing it as a race. Some of us are just doing it for fun. Me! It's really cool to see a lot of our paddlers start as fairly new paddlers. And then they build up the skills and the confidence to do this race, the Race to the Dome, we've got people here who've never been on a race ever. So this is their first race.
Christy Kurtz: And, it it's a lot of fun. We race down the river, and then at the end, they have a big celebration with the awards for those people who are doing it for time. And, we hear about updates with Missouri River Relief and their fabulous organization.
Tina Casagrand Foss: Missouri River Relief is a nonprofit organization dedicated to exploration, enjoyment, restoration and care of the river. Proceeds from today’s registrations and sponsorships will go toward their work educating people about the Missouri River. Christy is thrilled to be able to support an organization she admires while doing something she loves so much. For her, paddling isn’t just exercise…it’s a whole lifestyle.
Christy Kurtz: I like being close to the water. I like the feel of you know, moving on the water, I like the sound. I like seeing all the cool wildlife, the birds, the snakes, the fish, you know, we see amazing things that you will never see when you're hiking. I love hiking too. And I've done backpacking, all those things, but I really there's just something about the water. Especially like first thing in the morning, when the sun's coming up in the fog is out there or sunsets we do a lot of sunset paddles. …it's just, it's peaceful. It's fun, it's beautiful. And you see stuff you'd never see otherwise. And you meet the coolest people! I mean, you look around this place you think Where else would I meet this wild assortment of people?
Tina Casagrand Foss: She’s right, the launch is bustling with all kinds of people. Athletes in tights and sunglasses, parents and grandparents with their kids wrapped in blankets.
As things gear up for the race to begin, racers pack up their water and snacks, and pose for photos. There’s probably 100 people milling about.
Dave Combs: All right, everybody, if you want to gather up here, we'll get our safety talk going.
Tina Casagrand Foss: Then River Relief’s Dave Combs gives the paddlers a safety brief:
Dave Combs: Well welcome everybody. I'm glad you guys all came out. It's gonna be a beautiful day, little cool start, but can't complain for a day like this. So my name is Dave, I'm the fleet manager at River Relief. Welcome to the 14th annual Race to the Dome.
We're gonna go over some general safety information for you guys.
Tina Casagrand Foss: Safety on any river is important -- but on the Missouri, it’s top of mind for the race organizers. Dikes, barges, a strong current, and jumping carp are unique challenges to paddling the Missouri. Dave’s biggest tip for today’s paddlers? Wear their PFDs – that's their personal floatation devices.
Dave Combs: Make sure they’re buckled and snug the whole time. Some hazards that you might run into out there today: There might be some recreational boaters out there. If you see him coming towards you, make sure you're visible. You can always wave a paddle in the air a little bit if you think they don't see you. The forecast today is a high of 62. It's a little cool right now, so just be aware of, like, hypothermia. Try and stay dry. The current is going to be the fastest in the channel right here. You're going to want to keep your boat in there to make it a little bit easier for you. If your boat should capsize, remember to be calm. Relax. You've got some time. You've got your life jacket on. Don't try and paddle or swim upstream. Just kind of work your way over to the bank using the current. If you do get in the water. That probably be a good time to think about whether you need to call a safety boat or not, depending on what kind of clothing you got and the temperatures. Again, don't feel bad about calling that number. We can come help you if you need it…Thanks again for coming out this morning and thanks for supporting Missouri River relief. Have fun out there and watch out for each other. And if you have any questions let me know.
[music]
Tina Casagrand Foss: People are launching their boats into the water. There are canoes and kayaks for one or two people, and stand-up paddle boards. Some years there’s a dragon boat that holds more than a dozen racers, and one year my brother-in-law played his cello at the front of a canoe my husband paddled. To see all this color in the Big Muddy is a beautiful sight.
[countdown to start of race]
And they’re off.
[sound of paddles in the water]
The Race to the Dome can take anywhere from an hour and forty minutes, to almost five hours, depending on the distance the paddlers cover, their boat, and their style. Some people race for time, and others are just here for a social day out on the river.
River Town producer Tadeo Ruiz headed down to the finish line by car. He chatted with paddlers as they came off the water…Including one of only three stand up paddle-boarders to compete: Jaime Sallee.
[music]
Tadeo Ruiz: How long have you been doing this for?
Jamie Sallee: Paddling for, like, 15 years now. But racing? Probably like 5 or 6.
Tadeo Ruiz: Oh, wow. Why?
Jaime Sallee: “Yeah, I used to have an all around paddle board and then I wanted to go a little faster. I found out those race boards, and they're a lot lighter and faster and I just like to go fast paddle hard.”
Tadeo Ruiz: But why paddling? I mean, you could have chosen, you know, rock climbing, spelunking, skydiving…
Jaime Sallee: Paddle boarding, just the love of the ocean. But then we're in Kansas… paddle board and you can do that anywhere.
Tadeo Ruiz: Well that’s nice, congratulations! How do you feel about, you know, making it?
Jaime Sallee: Yeah, it was good. I was good until right here. Fell in right at the finish line. That was a little chilly. But overall, it's good. It's nice to make it down and it’s beautiful. The paddle, it’s nice and quiet.
[music]
Tina Casagrand Foss: Everyone seems to have their “reason”; why they love paddling so much. For many of the people we talked to at the race, it wasn’t the adrenaline or the burn of engaging in a challenging sport… but the peace they feel from being out on the water.
[river sounds]
Shane Camden: We have a lot of people who who, who come downtown just to look at the river for a few minutes.
Tina Casagrand Foss: This is Shane Camden, owner of Paddle Stop in New Haven, Missouri. Just a block away from the river, it’s a boat shop and a brewery. Now that’s some recreation I can relate to! Shane says he likes to watch people visit the riverside and hit their reset buttons.
Shane Camden: Maybe on your way home from work, maybe. Maybe it's noisy in the house with kids running around, and you just need to get out and see the river.
Tina Casagrand Foss: New Haven rests between the south side of the Missouri River and Highway 100, halfway between Hermann to the west and Washington to the east.
They have a tiny and darling downtown, with a coffee and cocktail shop, a charming, old-timey movie theater, and a glass studio with colorful ornaments, vases and pitchers sitting in the window.
[Train sounds]
Outside, trains and birdsong are often the only sounds that punctuate New Haven’s silence on a cool, fall afternoon.
[sounds from inside Paddle Stop Brewery]
Inside Paddle Stop, the walls are decorated with mounted paddle boards and boats that Shane and his friends have built over the years. The coolest part of THIS building is the sink, which is a big, wooden canoe right outside the restrooms. Shane clearly takes the “Paddle Stop” theme very seriously.
[sounds from customer interactions]
The space is equipped with a bar, a beer hall, an art gallery and even a library.
Shane Camden: During the late spring, summer and early fall, people can paddle right up to us, get out of their boat and come have some beers….like, you can always tell a paddler they're almost always wearing a PFD, or some kind of like sun protection. You can spot them as soon as they get off the boat ramp. …Every year we have about a dozen paddlers come through that are paddling the whole river and on any given day, really. But usually weekends, they're in here resting charging their phones or their navigation and having a beer, maybe some food, and they're just sitting there like a normal person. But they're full of stories of the river because they've been on it for over 2000 miles at that point, close to 2400 miles.
Tina Casagrand Foss: Before it became a brewery, Shane started Paddle Stop as a river adventure company and has been leading group excursions ever since.
Some of Paddle stop’s trips take place on a giant wooden canoe that Shane made. It’s called the Voyager, and it seats up to ten passengers. Other trips guide paddlers in their own kayaks.
Shane Camden: We do trips on the rivers on mostly the Missouri River, that are kind of like a sunset cruise. But then we'll stop on an island and make dinner. And then once the moon comes up, then we'll finish our trip under the moonlight. So, it's really a special time, you know, it's golden hour as well as like a fresh new moon.
Tina Casagrand Foss: Ugh, I know he’s right. There’s a whole other world out there for people who paddle, and it’s worth getting a little wet or cold. You can live near the river all your life and not really know it until you float out into something new.
Shane Camden: Fortunately, for paddlers, almost anytime you're paddling, you're in nature, and absorbing the beauty of nature. I think you could say the same for cycling or running or some other activity, but paddling is almost always in beautiful places.
It's a way to clear my mind. I don't I try not to think too much out there. Just enjoy what I see. And what I'm doing and where I'm at… for me, it's really just escaping …the noise. The busyness … just getting away from it getting... kind of recentering and again, enjoying Nature and just stillness.
[River Sounds]
Tina Casagrand Foss: Alright… while I may not be joining my stepdaughter on her next kayaking adventure, I’m starting to get an answer to what may be pulling her -- and all these athletes to the river. When you’re standing next to--or out on top of--a huge, flowing river… you can’t help but feel a little bit small. And you feel the time pass differently. Suddenly, you’re aware on some deep-down level that your time on this earth -- your impact -- is nothing compared to a river’s.
[river sounds]
I guess that’s worth the sweat.
[music]
Tina Casagrand Foss: That’s this edition of River Town. Next time…
These are the future of River Relief. These are the kids that are going to be working for River Relief, you know, in the next 15-20 years. They're going to be the ones who are basically keeping the river clean.
We’ll meet advocates for river health of all ages. Check out our website at columbiamissourian.com/rivertown. And see more Missouri River stories from River Town and beyond at newterritorymag.com/rivertown.
[music and lyrics]
Now I sit waiting watch the time go by
I miss you honey but it’s got to be,
there’s a river raging between you and me
River Town was reported by Tadeo Ruiz [tah-DAY-oh roo-EES], Ailing Li, Ellie Lin, Kaylin Hellyer, Olivia Mizelle [mye-ZELL], Kiana Ferandes and Abby Lee. Abigail Keel is our producer and editor. Jessica Vaughn Martin is our project manager. Music for River Town comes from Gloria Attoun and from Jason Shaw via the free music archive Creative Commons license.
Our audience teams and our photo teams are led by Professor Kara Edgerson and Professor Brian Kratzer at the Missouri News Network. Special thanks to the Mississippi River Basin Ag & Water Desk.
River Town is a collaborative project from KBIA, the Missouri School of Journalism’s Missouri News Network, and The New Territory magazine.
Executive producers of River Town are Janet Saidi, and me, Tina Casagrand Foss, in partnership with PRX.
